Onam – the harvest festival of Kerala
Onam, the biggest festival of Kerala, is celebrated in the month of August or September. This is considered as a 10 day festival, but the celebrations spill onto the 11th and 12th days as well. Onam is celebrated on the 10th day. 9th (Uthradam) and 11th (Avittam) days are also very important.
Snake boat race
Onam is a great time to visit Kerala. The government, temples and various cultural bodies organize numerous cultural programs all over the state during this time. The weather is pleasant and the days can be sunny or cloudy. According to a very popular legend, Onam (10th day) will be bright and sunny if Attam (1st day) is cloudy.
Onam is a secular festival. While it has a religious theme, its secular aspect is more evident than its religious aspect. Hindus may visit temples during these ten days but there are no special pujas or other religious ceremonies associated with Onam.
Onam – the legend
Onam celebrates the homecoming of Kerala’s legendary king Mahabali who reigned over the state eons ago. Although he was an asura (demon), he was pious and had too much interest in the welfare of his people. Mahabali was the grandson of Prahlada who was a great devotee of Lord Vishnu. He was a powerful king who conquered the earth and the heavens under the able guidance of his guru Shukracharya. Indra, the king of devas, became jealous of Mahabali. He wanted to stop Mahabali and protect his throne. He didn’t want an Asura king to ascend the throne of Devaloka (heavens). So he approached Lord Vishnu who has a soft corner for Devas. He requested Vishnu to send Mahabali to pathala (nether world) and protect devas. Vishnu agreed.
Pulikkali in Thrissur
He assumed the form of a dwarf called Vamana and went to the court of Mahabali while he was performing Ashwamedha Yagam (a sacrificial rite). Mahabali had this habit of giving people whatever they asked for. He received Vamana with great pleasure and asked him what he wanted. Vamana said that he only needed land measuring three feet. Shukracharaya realized that Vamana was none other than Vishnu and tried to dissuade Mahabali from granting that wish. But Mahabali persisted saying that he would remain true to his word. He granted the wish and suddenly Vamana started growing much to the disbelief of the king and his courtiers. With just one foot, he measured the earth and with the second foot he measured the skies. Then he asked the king where he should place the third foot. The king bowed before Vamana with great humility and requested him to place his foot on his head. Vamana was pleased with the devotion and humility of Mahabali and asked him if he had any wishes. Mahabali said that he would like to return to his land and see his people once every year. Vamana granted that wish before pushing Mahabali to Suthala (a heaven-like nether world). Why should Vishnu have done this to a pious king like Mahabali? Countless Malayalis have asked this question. According to one variation of this story, Mahabali had become arrogant because of his success and Vishnu wanted to teach him that the Lord was still above him.
Anyway, Malayalis expect their beloved king to visit them every year on the day of Onam. And to receive him and to show him that they are living in happiness and prosperity they wear the finest clothes on this day, prepare beautiful flower rangolis on the floor outside their home and make grant feasts.
The festival begins with Attachamayam. It is a royal parade organized on the first day (Attam) of Onam in Thripunithura, a suburb of Kochi. This is a colourful parade which showcases the cultural legacy of Kerala. It includes more than 50 floats and over 100 tableaux. Tripunithura is believed to be the ancient capital of Mahabali. Attam is the first day of Onam. Starting this day every Hindu household will prepare a pookkalam (flower carpet) on cow dung plastered floor in front of their home. This continues until Thiruvonam (10th day of the festival). New pookkalams are prepared every morning. This is an activity that all children enjoy. Some families may place a clay idol of Vamana and Mahabali next to the Pookalam. The idol of Vamana is called Trikkakarappan (the lord of Trikkakkara). During these ten days pookkalam competitions are held all over the state and outside of it.
Attachamayam – royal parade in Thripunithura
The making of the flower rangoli is the most important part of the onam celebration. Earlier children would raid the entire neighbourhood for flowers. Now many families buy them from the market. Elaborate meals are served on the last 2-3 days of the festival. People also wear new clothes and on these days many Hindus visit temples. Mahabali is not worshipped as a god but Vishnu is worshipped as Vamana during these days. Vamanamurthi temple at Trikkakara is the main center of Onam celebrations in Kerala.
Onam is the biggest shopping season in Kerala. Schools remain closed for ten days and the general mood is upbeat. If you visit Kerala around the time of Onam, you will get to see the snake boat races and costumed parades like Pulikali (tiger dance). Pulikali is essentially a parade of men who wear tiger masks and paint tiger faces and strips on their body. They will dance to the beats of traditional percussion instruments like chenda and move around the city. Thrissur is the center of Pulikali. It is also performed in several other places. Snake boat races are usually held in the southern parts of the state.
Onam is a great time to discover the cultural legacy of Kerala. Hotels and resorts tend to organize special onam celebrations for tourists.
