Your guide to the snake boat races of Kerala
Colorful Snake boat races are organized in South Kerala (especially Kottayam and Alappuzha districts) during the rainy season (June – September).
What is a snake boat?
A snake boat (chundan vallam) has nothing to do with snakes. It is a long traditional style boat that resembles a snake in some aspects. Earlier the people of South Kerala especially Alappuzha used to use these boats in wars. Those days are gone for good and snake boats are no longer used in wars. A typical snake boat is long enough to accommodate around 100 rowers. In the Kuttanadu region of Alappuzha almost every village has their own snake boats and rowers. The villagers are extremely proud of their boats. A typical boat race sees the participation of several boats and villages. It is a matter of pride for all villagers and each one wants their boat to win the races.
Snake boats have a history dating back to the 17th century. Earlier Alappuzha was under the rule of several small time kings who quarreled with one another. They would often fight one another in these boats. One king who suffered major losses in one such battle asked boat architects to build him a better boat. This is how the snake boat was born. It helped him win the battle.
Snake boats are designed with great care. Actually only experienced carpenters can build them and the subtleties of the design play a crucial role in ensuring the success of the boat in a race.
Where are snake boat races held?
Every year four major boat races and several minor races are held in and around Alappuzha. These races see the participation of almost everyone in the villages. They also attract hundreds of tourists.
Nehru Trophy Snake Boat Race
The winner of this prestigious race gets the Nehru Trophy, named after the first Prime Minister of India. Nehru Trophy is held on the Punnamada Lake in Alappuzha.
Champakkulam Moolam boat race is the oldest among these races. It is held on the river at Champakkulam which is around 25 kilometers from Alappuzha.
The Payippad Jalotsavam, another major boat race, is held on Payippad Lake, about 35 kilometers from Alappuzha. It will be held on September 16, 2016. The Kumarakom boat race will also be held on the same day.
The Aranmula Boat Race is held on the Pampa River at Aranmula, around 50 kilometers to the south of Alleppey. It coincides with Onam.
Geographical aspects
Northern parts of Kerala, especially the districts Palakkad and Thrissur, have vibrant temple festivals called Poorams. They showcase caparisoned elephants and traditional Kerala temple orchestra. Poorams are held between February and May. Such festivals are uncommon in the Southern parts of Kerala. Instead they have boat races. Snake boat races are usually held between July and September.
When are snake boat races held?
The Nehru Trophy boat race is always held on the second Saturday in August. The dates of other races vary each year. Snake boat races coincide with Onam. They are actually the major highlight of the Onam celebrations in the state. Several other boat races are also held during the Onam festival along the backwaters at Kottayam and Alappuzha.
Champakkulam Moolam Snake Boat Race
When: Champakkulam Boat Race Champakkulam – Alappuzha Dist 20 Jun 2016
The Champakkulam Moolam Snake Boat Race is the oldest boat race in Kerala. It is also one of the most prestigious. It is held to celebrate the installation of the idol of Krishna at the Sree Krishna Temple in Ambalappuzha. The legend has it that devotees carrying the idol stopped over at Champakkulam on their way to Ambalappuzha. The next morning when they reached the river, they saw numerous colorful boats assembled there to escort the idol to the temple. Every year before the boat race begins, this mythical event is re-enacted with great fanfare. Colorful parasols adorning the boats, performing artists and exotic water floats captivate the audience.
Nehru Trophy Snake Boat Race
Nehru Trophy Boat Race
Punnamada – Alappuzha Dist 13 Aug 2016
The Nehru Trophy boat race is the most prestigious. It is held in memory of India’s first Prime Minister Jawahar Lal Nehru. When Nehru visited Alappuzha in 1952, the people of the district organized an impromptu snake boat race in his honor. Nehru was so impressed that he watched the entire race and even donated a trophy. This race has been held ever since. In order to watch this race, you need to buy tickets. The tickets don’t cost much. Standing room on a makeshift bamboo deck costs less than $1. If you need VIP access, you will have to shell out up to $25. It rains in August, so don’t forget to bring an umbrella.
Aranmula Snake Boat Race
When: Aranmula Boat Race
Aranmula – Pathanamthitta Dist 17 Sep 2016
More than a contest, the Aranmula Boat Race is a religious event. Held over two days, it commemorates the time offerings used to be taken to the Aranmula Parthasarathy Temple on snake boats. In order to watch this event, you should stand somewhere on the banks of the Pampa river near the temple in Aranmula. It is a spectacular event that features traditionally dressed rowers accompanied by singers.
How to reach
Alappuzha is well-connected by roads. The nearest airport is the Kochi International Airport which is about 85 kilometers away. Chengannur is the nearest railway station to Alappuzha (10 kilometers). Almost all trains between Kochi and Thiruvananthapuram stop at Chengannur. From there hire a taxi to get around Alappuzha.